Isla del Sol – Birthplace of the Incas
In the last post from the February, 2026 Adventures Abroad Kingdoms of the Andes tour we said goodbye to Peru and crossed over to Bolivia where we had a very enjoyable day exploring the small city of Copacabana with its fabled shrine to a sacred statue of the Virgin Mary. Today we are going to return to the waters of Lake Titicaca and take a boat tour to the Isla del Sol, the mythical homeland of the Incas. If it’s half as interesting as our first foray onto Lake Titicaca where we visited the floating islands and Taquile, the island of knitting men, it will be a day to remember, so join us on board for yet another great adventure abroad.
History of the Isla del Sol
Looking at this map of Lake Titicaca you can see how it is divided between Peru and Bolivia with 60% on the Peru side and 40% on the Bolivian side. It’s been that way since colonial times and when both countries achieved independence they kept the previous borders between the Spanish Viceroyalty provinces, Peru and Alto Peru aka Bolivia. The Isla del Sol is the largest island in Lake Titicaca and lies some 18 kms. (11 miles) from Copacabana from where there is a regular passenger ferry service.
Humans have been inhabiting the island for at least 5,000 years and as we discovered in the last post, the Aymara people, who still exist today, were probably there for most if not all of the time. They are the progenitors of the Tiahuanaco culture that was centred around Lake Titicaca from about 400 to 1000 CE and whose great city of the same name we will visit in the next post. There are Tiahuanaco sites on Isla del Sol and it was the Aymara who coined the name Titi’kaka first for the island and then the entire lake. For them it was always a sacred place and the idea that it was the birthplace of the sun long predates the arrival of the Incas in the 15th century. In a classic case of cultural appropriation if there ever was one, the Incas decided that they in fact originated on the Isla del Sol.
When we visited the Incan site of Racqui a few days before we saw a statue Viracocha, the Supreme God of the Incas at the entrance. For reasons that are not entirely clear, by the time of the Incan emperor Tupac Yupanqui, the tenth of the 14 recognized Sapa Incas, it was firmly believed that Viracocha had emerged from Lake Titicaca and created the sun god Inki on the Isla del Sol (thus the name). Inki in turn had created the very first Sapa Inca Manco Capac and his sister Mama Ocllo and together they became the forebears of the Inca race. Tupac Yupanqui built the Temple of the Sun on Isla del Sol as a place of pilgrimage for the Inca people and it was essentially the equivalent of Mecca for his people. The ruins of it still exist today and we saw them from the water, but did not visit as it is a fairly serious trek from the landing area to get there.
And of course by now we know the unhappy ending – the Spanish arrived and destroyed everything.
Today there are about 800 Aymara families on the Isla del Sol, earning a living from farming, fishing and tourism. There are no roads or motorized vehicles so it’s like stepping back in time and I can’t wait so let’s get on board.
Even though we are at an elevation of 3,812 metres (12,507 feet) where we would be wearing parkas if we could even get that high n Canada or the US, here in Copacabana at the pier where we will board this boat it is positively balmy.
Our tour leader Diego Vidal is in shirtsleeves.
Even though the boat can hold up to 100 people there is only our group and a few other couples, a reminder for about the umpteenth time of why coming to Peru and Bolivia in February is the right choice. The journey to Isla del Sol is very pleasant with beautiful views of the lake and surrounding mountains.
We arrive and disembark at the foot of the Inca steps which look a bit formidable. That’s Mama Ocllo on the left side.
Her brother Manco Capac is on the left side with a sacred fountain emerging below him.
You definitely get a sense of mystery and an almost tingly feeling standing at the foot of these stairs, knowing that you are about to climb literally in the footsteps of thousands if not millions of Inca pilgrims before you. I’ve never been to Bethlehem and never will get to Mecca, but I am now at the Incan version and it is awesome.
Taking our time we gradually make it to the top without getting too out of breath. This is the view looking down from up there.
Descriptions I had read about Isla del Sol did not prepare me for the absolute beauty of this place. It is overflowing with lush foliage everywhere, including dozens of varieties of flowers that I would not have believed could exist at this altitude. No wonder the Incas considered this their Garden of Eden complete with its own topiary llama. Double click to open a photo and double click again to enlarge.
The views of Lake Titicaca from up here are stunning.
It’s not just the feast for the eyes and wonderful scent of the flowers that Isla del Sol offers, the place is alive with birdsong. There are 140 species of birds to be found on or around the island including the giant hummingbird which I spotted, but couldn’t get a decent photo because it was constantly on the move. I would come here just for the birding and the flowers, but there’s more in store.
This is a typical pathway on Isla del Sol with flowers and herbs on both sides.
We make our way to an opening where an Aymara shaman sits awaiting us, sitting high above the lake in a magical setting.
He has a small fire burning and makes offerings into it which are meant to release negative energy and create an aura that will allow each of us to be blessed.
Most take advantage of the opportunity.
We are also given the chance to make our own offerings to whatever deity we might chose.
Anyone who has read my posts will know that I am not a religious person, but that doesn’t mean I am not interested in religious practices. I find them fascinating and take solace in knowing that they bring peace and inner harmony to many people, if not myself. This was a such an experience on the Isla del Sol and I am glad that Adventures Abroad included it in the visit to this wonderful place.
After the visit with the shaman our group had the opportunity to commune with alpacas.
And just like that, it’s time to leave. The time just seems to have evaporated away without our even noticing its passing. I know we did a lot more than what I’ve described in this post, but it was almost like we had visited the island of the lotus-eaters from the Odyssey and were somehow tranquilized by the experience; in a good way that is.
Trust me, if you take this tour, the Isla del Sol will be one of the major highlights.
In the next post we’ll visit the Aymara city of Tiahuanaco, a place I’ve been yearning to see ever reading about it in Chariots of the Gods, more years ago than I dare to admit. I hope to see you there.