I visited Cologne as a boy with my grandparents and never forgot the overpowering immensity of its great Gothic cathedral. Recently, due to the vagaries of traveling on points I found myself at Dusseldorf airport with a long layover before heading on to Rome. Not wanting to waste the day I took the train to Cologne which stops virtually across the street from the cathedral and spent the day exploring the old part of the city. The only sour note was the terrible graffiti that marred the belfry. Why anyone, religious or not, would want to deface a beautiful cathedral is beyond me.